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BUT WHAT ABOUT
DORMANCY?
Most amaryllis
growing guides
will tell you
that your bulb
'needs'
to go dormant.
This is a myth.
In
fact, some
varieties, like
Amaryllis
Cybister, must
not be allowed
to
go dormant.
However, forced
dormancy is
useful if
you
want your
Amaryllis
bulb to
bloom at a
preset time
(e.g. winter
holidays). Read
our
special
care
instructions
for
dormancy.
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STAGE 3(FALL/WINTER):
BULB MAY 'REST'
LIGHT: keep your
Amaryllis, indoors,
in the brightest
window that you
have, over the winter
months. A
greenhouse, of you have
one, is great as
well.
TEMPERATURE:
Move your Amaryllis
indoors in the fall when
night temperatures fall
to about 50°. Once
indoors, keep them at
normal room temperatures.
Bulbs which lose some of
their leaves or seem to
slow down considerably,
should be moved to cooler
spots if possible
(60-65°) until they
resume more active
growth. The rest can be
kept at normal household
temperatures.
WATER: As it
near the end of summer,
growth starts to slows
down as the days get
shorter, and the nights
cooler. Start reducing
the frequency of watering
as plants will not
require as much. Remove
older leaves as they
fade.
FERTILIZER: Reduce
fertilizer application in
winter, perhaps to once a
month, or slightly more if your
plants are more
vigorous. Always use
a flowering plant
food.
When
your plants begin to show
signs of new growth
and vigor with
brighter light
and warmer
temperatures in the
spring, increase
watering. You may also
wish to
repot your
bulb
at
this stage, before any
flowers
emerge! Plants
should then begin their
blooming cycle
again.
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